Air conditioning Your Log Home

Of course, our forefathers didn't worry an excessive amount of about heating their log cabins. Big fireplaces had no problem starting to heat up usually the one or two rooms they lived in. Of course since log homes are family-sized, people often have the impression that there's something else entirely about how exactly they may be heated, and the nice thing about it is an ordinary system will work as well within a log home as a traditional structure.

Virtually all log homes are made with a minumum of one fireplace. Initially, we considered that our beautiful soapstone woodstove would heat the whole house, and we might use our forced-air propane heat being a backup. Alas, we had arrived all wrong. Because you will find a cathedral ceiling having a big loft, the warmth through the stove goes directly upstairs, requiring two ceiling fans to recirculate the warm air. We expected this, but additionally we thought heat would expand sideways in the remaining portion of the open living area (dining room and kitchen). Not on your health! Even sitting on the couch about 15 feet in the stove, I need a coverlet. I'm uncomfortably chilly in the kitchen area. I do think that if there was a regular ceiling, heat probably have gone where we expected it, however the amount of the cathedral ceiling threw off our calculations. Also, the soapstone stove is made to be run 24/7, and because we both help an income, the stove isn't getting enthusiastic prior to the evening. This woodstove needs to be hot slowly in the likelihood of cracking the stone, so when it is certainly cooking we're ready for bed.

Old-fashioned fireplaces traditionally sucked all the heated air out of the room, but modern designs tend to be efficient at recirculating the temperature. The most energy-efficient fireplace is created in the heart of the house, therefore the stack heat is just not lost out. Outside stacks can produce back drafts in the event the fire is extinguished, creating a new fire more challenging to light. If you are planning multiple fireplaces, putting 2 of them back-to-back (facing adjoining rooms) provides you with the ability to build one chimney with two flues. Or you'll place a fireplace above your furnace, again allowing two flues in the same chimney. A direct-vent fireplace will take away the chimney, but you'll have to learn how to hide the vent on the exterior wall. Or, if you are using a wood-stove, you may run the pipe through the wall and sheer the exterior, constructing a box throughout the pipe to simulate a chimney. With regards to the look you would like, you may want to leave the pipe space and send it through the roof. This will give more heat.

It's a wise decision to take into consideration your heating and air-conditioning needs at the outset of the structure phase. Although log homes are naturally energy-efficient, it isn't really wise to skimp on the system. You may be in a position to heat your entire house using a huge fireplace or wood stove, nevertheless the township will probably have minimum standards to fulfill before they issue a building permit. Also, you should consider resale value. I understand of 1 individual that attemptedto sell a million-dollar handcrafted log home with out a furnace, so that as you could suspect, the buyer never arrived. Your house was listed as unfinished, and installing the heat afterwards was too daunting a job. A similar problem exists if you attempt for getting away without central heat and air. Yes, log homes do stay cooler during the warm months, but those "dog days" of August can give you an absolutely miserable night's sleep, as well as a potential buyer will most likely stop as tolerant as the original owner. Indeed, our bank wouldn't consider granting a building loan when we didn't include central air conditioning.

If you want to preserve ductwork space, you can use forced air heat, with similar ductwork serving air conditioner. Propane or oil are usually the fuels of choice in rural areas. If the interior partitions is restricted, you'll find firms that focus on small, high-pressure duct systems that suit into tight angles; scalping strategies usually need a better initial installation cost. When working with traditional ductwork, you need to maintain your angles to start, so it helps you to design bottom floor walls that will conveniently carry mid-air straight up towards the second floor. A floor plan provides a challenge, since you must bear in mind that the upstairs rooms must be heated somehow, and you will need both supply and return vents to produce a competent air flow. If you want to use full log interior walls, you must find an alternate way to run the ductwork, electric, and plumbing. We made that mistake, and there are not enough return vents in our bedroom. Mid-air is stuffy during the summer time time, in spite of the windows open.

Where perform vents go? Since the whole exterior walls are full log, quite a few vents were put in the bottom. If the interior walls are sheetrock or tongue-and-groove, place the vents where they normally go. Something I wish there were done was check out the program with all the HVAC contractor, because he place the vents in places I ran across most inconvenient. Some times it could be helped, and several times it can't.

If you are energy-minded and prefer to go out of your thermostat to start, you will see that the southern-facing side from the log home is commonly warmer as opposed to northern exposure. For the reason that sun is likely to sink nearer to the horizon over a winter afternoon, it's advantageous to prepare your large windows facing south; in the summer, the sun will cross the roof, therefore it won't overheat your home. However, you will probably find how the northern side of your house - which won't get direct sun at all - may be noticeably cooler. The most effective option is to put in radiant-floor heating (if you possibly could afford it). Even if this system requires a boiler as opposed to a furnace, the in-floor heating spreads the warmth evenly during your home, eliminating the northern-facing blues. With radiant-floor heating, you have to maintain your thermostat steady on a regular basis; the device is just not designed to be refused when you attend work. Additionally, you need to use the boiler to heat your domestic hot water as well, eliminating the need for a hot-water heater. However, you'll still must install ductwork to the ac.

Overall, precisely the same considerations apply as in regular construction. We thought we could get by just one zone of air conditioning, but in retrospect, two zones would have solved a lot of problems. Ultimately, it's cheaper to make it happen correctly to start with. Retrofitting a log home is not really a breeze!